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| Fig.
1 shows a completed eye splice. Splices are measured when the
eye Is closed and laying flat. The diameter of the loop that
the open eye would make (like the loop of a lariat) is not the
way the eye is measured. The determination of the length of
the eye is usually made by the cleat or fitting (or thimble)
that it will fit. If the eye is to be on a dock line and the
cleat Is 8", it would be proper to make an 8" eye
which will fit onto the cleat easily. The 8" would be represented
by "A" in fig. 1.
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| To
make an 8" eye splice, we are going to allow two times
that amount (16") plus the amount of rope that needs to
be unlayed (10"). Depending upon the diameter of the rope,
from 8" to 12" is usually unlayed. Our splice will
have 5 tucks. This is an important number to note since it is
the minimum number of tucks that should be given synthetic fiber
ropes. Manila usually needs only three or four tucks. Since
synthetic fibers are more slippery, a minimum of five tucks
should be used. A minimum of three is sufficient where such
items as belt lanyards etc. are being spliced, and the most
number of tucks needed would be seven on splices used in mooring
pennants and the like where constant stress is being put on
the rope over long periods of time.
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BEGINNING
THE SPLICE - FROM UNLAYING THE ROPE TO THE FIRST TUCK
Hold
the rope as shown in fig. 3a. Since we mentioned before that
nylon rope and other synthetics will want to unlay as soon
as they are cut, the following procedure will help reduce
this and allow us to make our splice with the least difficulty.
FIG. 3 shows the beginning steps to follow:
After
measuring and finding point "X" (fig. 2), tape as
shown. This will prevent the rope from unlaying any further
and not allow any of the strands to loosen up past the junction
of the eye (point x).
(Fig.3a)
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| Unlay
the strands of rope so that the end of each can be taped. Tape
each end using three Inches of tape, apply the tape so that
it twists the rope tighter,and does not untwist it. One or two
turns of the tape around the strand starting 1" from the
end will bring the tape past its end. Now reverse the direction
of taping and form a point or sharp end on the tape as you begin
to wind it on the strand back toward where you started taping
. . . this formed point helps feed each strand through the rope
as you splice. (Fig.3b) |
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Remember
that as you tape you want to be twisting the rope so that
the fibers tighten up. This Is part of the secret In properly
splicing any synthetic rope. .. the continual re-twisting
of the individual strands and not allowing them to unlay.
Everytime a tuck is made (a strand led through the standing
part of the rope) the strand should be twisted to its proper
shape to retain the overall correct lay of the fibers... do
not over twist and make cockles or kinks in the fiber. This
will defeat what you are striving for.
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MAKING
THE FIRST "TUCK"
Fig. 4 shows the three color coded unlayed strands laid out
with the gold strand under the blue and off to the bottom and
the white strand moved off to the top. |
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Fig.
5a. shows the West Fid inserted into the lay of the rope.
The fid is hollow so that a strand can be led into it and
fed through the rope. When the fid is removed the strand should
be snugly in place. it is important not to pull the strand
through each tuck, but to lead and feed it through. This enables
the twist of the fibers to remain as they should and not disturbed
as they would if each strand were pulled through during the
tucking operation.
Fig.
5a shows the fid inserted into and under a blue strand, opening
up the strand to allow the blue strand to be led under and
tucked. Remove the fid and tighten up this strand by twisting
the blue strand as you gently pull it tight.
Fig.
5b shows the gold strand being led under the gold standing
strand. We have discontinued showing the fid in use to clarify
how and where the strands are led through. Again, after removing
the fid, snug up the gold strand by twisting it In the direction
of the lay and gently pulling at the same time. We now have
two of the three strands tucked Into the standing part of
the rope.
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The
most difficult strand to work on the first set of tucks is
the third, white strand. Up to now, this whole exercise has
been simple... it's even as simple to complete if you just
pay close attention to tucking in this third strand properly.
Fig. 5c shows the white strand ~ mg tucked under the white
standing strand after the loop has been turned over. Note
that the unlayed white strand is led under the standing part
from right to left... this Is Important'. If there is confusion
now and you previous tucks, with the third, do not look like
the drawings, remove all of the strands and begin again. Drawing
5:1 shows all three strands tucked In, ready to proceed with
the second set of tucks.
Not
until you can splice in the first set of tucks with perfection
should you attempt to do any additional splicing.
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MAKING
THE FINISHING TUCKS
Again, see fig. 5d, it shows all three strands of the color
- coded rope with the first tucks completed. Note that each
strand emerges from the standing part of the rope from between
two strands. Now, holding the loop of the splice toward you
and the standing part of the rope away from you, take one of
the three coded strands and then, working toward the left, turning
the rope partially around as you work, tuck the blue strand
over the gold and under the white; next, the gold strand over
the white and under the blue; and then the white strand over
the blue and under the gold. The result is that each strand
emerges from between two others yet is separated from one another
by a single strand. |
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| Now,
and this is important, by tugging gently at each strand, and
while tugging, twisting the fibers so they follow the natural
lay of the other fibers, knead the completed tuck so that the
symmetry of the woven strands shows up clearly. Following the
same principle of working from right to left and gently turning
the rope over toward the right as each strand is passed over
one and under another, complete a total of five sets of tucks.
The color sequence of the third or fourth set of tucks does
not follow the same sequence as the second set. You'll be able
to judge a proper splice by the way the strands symmetrically
go over and under the others.
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